My joiner was of my motorbike as the lines that it formed where very good for the style of joiner that I decided to do. I liked the way that the very perfect lines that the motorbike has are the muddled up and form a very imperfect joiner which creates a juxtapostion between the perfect nature of the lines and the very imperfect look of the joiner.
I could have changed some of the filters of this image and perhaps just changed parts of the image and not the entire image, for example I could have made one part of the bike black and white then other parts of the bike in full colour.
Wednesday, 25 November 2009
Wednesday, 4 November 2009
Ideas for Photo Montage

This is another example of what I would like to achieve with my photo montage, this image was done by David Hockney and it shows him taking all of these pictures for his montage and it is in the montage itself. I like how it forms a whole picture but does not form one in the conventional shape of an image it is in a very ranodm shape, and gives it an even more rough and imperfect look then my first example. However, this also gives the idea of an unfinished image that needs something else before it will be complete.
Wednesday, 14 October 2009
Compositing an Image

This is the plane that I have had to composite onto the other image, in order to do this I jad to first select the whole plane to be copied onto the other half of the compostion. In order to do this I used the magic wand tool to select the white background, however this only selected the white whereas I needed the plane so I inverted the selection so that instead of having the plane as the only thing not selected it was the thing that I had selected. The only problem with this was that some parts of the plane had not been completely selected and some parts of the background where still selected, in order to select and deselect the parts i needed I used the polygonal lasso in order to get a straight refined edge to my selection.
So that I didn't have a "halo" around the edge of my picture I had to feather the image by 0.5 pixels. This then meant that I could easily copy and paste this plane into the other half of my composition.
To make the plane look more as if it hasn't been photoshopped into this image I needed to resive it and keep the proportions constrained, I needed to resize the plane down to about 75% of it's original size. To make the plane look as if it is turning I rotated anti-clockwise this gave the effect that it was turning away from the camera. The only problem with this picture now is that it doesn't look as if it is moving as there is no motion blur in order to change this I went into filters->blur->motion blur, I then needed to make sure the angle on the blur is the same as the angle that the plane is flying in, then made the distance for the blur abour 15 pixels. However when something is moving the leading edge doesn't blur so that is why I made this on a copied layer of the composited image so that I could delete the leading edge this made the plane look like it was moving and made it look very realistic.

Stained Glass filter
Tiles filter
Photocopy filter

The next filter that I used was the photocopy with the detail on it set to high. The effect I found on this one was very similar to the effect that i found with charcoal, however with this image it doesn't provide the same effect and feeling that the charcoal does as it doesn't capture as much of the definition that is captured by the charcoal.
Thursday, 8 October 2009
Charcoal Filter

This is my original image I have chosen to use this image as it has a good variation of colour and the large open areas on both the top and the bottom of the image create a good contrast between the top and the bottom.
This is my image after I applied the charcoal filter I turned up the charcoal thickness from 1 to 2 as I felt that this gives the image more definition and increases the impact of the black and white charcoal effect. I also changed the light/darkness so that it was easier to see the detail of the charcoal filter.
Wednesday, 30 September 2009
Hand Colouring Using Blending Techniques

In order to do this I made a new layer then used the hue/saturation pallet to remove all the saturation from the image making it black and white.
Each layer I created I had to change it so that it blended the colours of the new layer and the layers beneath it. Every time I added a new colour i made it on a new level this made it eaier for me to check if the new colour I had just added look right with the rest of the image.

The colours I decided to add where the green to the grass as I felt that it stoof out in that part of the image and would make a good starting place for my editing. The reflection of the houses in the water I decided to make even more grey then they were on the original as i felt this subtle effect would add to the feel of this image. Finally I decided to ass a few colours to the house in the middle as it acts as a focal point in my image as the river and the grass both lead towards it and also in a way border it. This makes the house grab your attention eventhough the colours added to it are very subtle and very faint.
David LaChapelle
David LaChapelle was born March 11th 1963 in farefield Connecticut. He is a photographer and a video director, he works in the fields of fashion, music and art he is noted for his surreal and sometimes humorous style.

He has recieved many awards for his works ranging from ''Best new photographer of the year'' in 1995 to ''GLAADs Vito Russo Award for outstanding contributions for fighting against homophobia''. He has also had four books published these books are all of the photographs that he has taken. All four books contain vivid sureal images of celebrities.

The picture above is the one he took of Madonna and is featured in one of his books, he often uses editing techniques to improve and transform the look of his pictures in a very major way he will often add things that were never in the picture rather then just changing certain bits or just airbrushing something out.
Monochrome And Colourized Monochrome

This is the image that I ended up with the way I did this was to change the image into black and white by taking the saturation all the way down. However, before i did that i changed the brightness (o to -5) and contrast (0 to 26). I then had to invert the image so that it came out in negative.
Friday, 25 September 2009
Colourizing A Picture


The task I had to do was to use the colourize tool on photoshop which is in the adjust hue/saturation pallet.
When I did this i had to create more layers in order to do this properly and this also made it much easier to correct after I had made a mistake, as with the selection tools it is often very easy to go over the edges which then means that parts of the image that you don't want to change will end up a different colour.
I decided to use this image as it already had very strong lines that were easy to follow with the selection tool and this also meant that i could create very effective contrast very easily using this very simple tool. I chose to only change two parts of this image as they were very large areas and even though they are very strange colours it doesn't make it look strange or out of place compared to the original as the original was already very perfect and did look as if it had already had some form of image changing work done to it even though it hadn't.
Using Levels

An over-exposed image is an image that has too much light, this would look like the opposite of the above histogram.
A correctly exposed image has a well spread distribution of light so will have peaks at both ends of the histogram and should have a larger peak near the grey area of the histogram.
A high key image is on that has predominantly light tones, whereas a low key image will be predominantly dark tones which will make the same picture look very different with each of these different effects added to it.
There are many different ways of selecting things using different tools and all are useful for different things:
- Magic wand - this is used to select a whole area of the same colour within a certain constraint limit which can be set to be more accurate or more indescrete when it selects colours.
- Magnetic laso - this will stick to the edge of the colour that you move it passed which makes it very good for going around the edge of very defined areas that have lots of different colours in them.
- Selection brush - this allows you to manually brush the area you wish to select which makes it easier to select small detailed areas that may have lots of different colours in a small area that the other selection tool may not allow you to get, or would select without you wanting them to.
Thursday, 24 September 2009
Using The Levels Pallet
Cropping Tool


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